Töfsingdalen

Approximately where Dalarna meets Härjedalen and the Swedish mountain range starts you find Töfsingdalen National Park. A national park that few have heard of and even fewer have visited. The national park is desolate and it is difficult to get here. No roads go here and the hiking trails in the area take you to the national park border but no further than that, because in Töfsingdalen there are no hiking trails. If you enter the national park, you leave civilization behind and encounter a raw and unforgiving wilderness.

Watch the video for more info about Töfsingdalen

The idea of making a film about Töfsingdalen was born the year before the film was shot. We then hiked through the national park during a 3 day hike starting in Grövelsjön. Töfsingdalen was then only a small part of the hike as a whole and despite the fact that we were prepared for the terrain to be difficult to access, the reality was worse than we had expected. When the rugged block terrain strikes, the hiking speed sometimes goes down to almost non-existent. Each step requires full concentration so as not to fall or slip. It was raining but not enough to keep away the mosquitoes that were in abundance. Crossing the park turned out to be more strenuous than we had imagined. Once we got through Töfsingdalen we were relieved that it was over and had no interest in returning.

Hike from Grövelsjön that pass through Töfsingdalen

Once we had come home and the months passed, the memories from Töfsingdalen were marinated in our heads. What kind of national park was Töfsingdalen that left lasting, but mostly negative, memories. Now the thoughts began to grow that Töfsingdalen was worth a second chance and that Töfsingdalen probably has more to offer than difficult terrain and mosquitoes. Plans for a return trip to Töfsingdalen were started.

About a year later, this time in September, we went to Töfsingdalen again. This time the plan was to just indulge in and experience the national park. Again this time we started from Grövelsjön and started the approximately 13 km long hike to the national park. The first mishap happened when we started approaching the park and leaving the bare mountain behind us. Mosquitoes began to appear. This was not something we had expected in September and we had left mosquito repellent at home. With lowered morale we continued the hike and luckily it would turn out that mosquitoes would not be a problem. There were a few mosquitoes that welcomed us but after that there was hardly a mosquito in sight.

Töfsingdalen

The initial plan was to camp in the national park. There seems to be a perception that it is not allowed to camp within the national park boundary, but this is not true. There are quite large protected areas that you are not allowed to camp in, but as long as you do not pitch the tent there, it is ok according to the regulations. Complete regulations for Töfsingdalen National Park can be read on the County Administrative Board in Dalarna’s website (Länsstyreslsen i Dalarna).

In the end, we did not camp in the park anyway. There are good and nice shelters just south of the national park border where we camped instead and made day trips into the national park.

Storån

The second day we followed Storån which goes furthest along the national park border. This is a famous fishing water and we saw several large trout swimming in the river but did not manage to get the shy fish on film. After crossing the big river, we continued up to Hovden, Töfsingdalen’s highest point. Here you get an overview of the entire national park. Then we started working our way down to Töfsingån. The terrain we went through during the day was still decent, measured by Töfsingdalen standards, but that was what you managed to do in one day.

Next day the weather was significantly worse. It rained heavily for a large part of the day which made it difficult to film. We did not have time to explore the western and northern part of the national park as we had wanted and a fairly large part of the park had to be undocumented. The next day we had to return to Grövelsjön because we would also have time to visit Fulufjället and film there. A certain feeling of failure appeared when we walked back. Töfsingdalen is difficult to film and it did not feel like we had received good enough video to make a good film.

Once the tour was over and we were back home and started cutting the sequences and processing the memories from Töfsingdalen, a film began to emerge. Once the complete film was finished, the feeling of failure was gone. You can always wish that certain things could have been different, but think the film does a good job of conveying Töfsingdalen.

Hope you who watch appreciate the film. And if you do, please subscribe to the Youtube channel and feel free to comment, it is warmly appreciated and helps in future productions.

Fjällmossen

Among Kolmården’s forests is Fjällmossen nature reserve with its large bogs. Here you find hiking trails and nice shelters for those who want to explore and spend the night in the bog.

Watch the video for more info from Fjällmossen

Fjällmossen

This tour started at the shelters located at lake lilla Göljen. At the small lake there are two shelters and a fireplace. Firewood and water can be gathered a few hundred meters away. After putting away some of the packing in the shelter, the tour began with exploring the bog. Not long after, you come to a fire area where nature conservation burnings were carried out in 2010. The hike continued around the bog and lots of birds were spotted out on the bog.

Shelter at lilla Göljen

After spending most of the day at the bog, we returned to the shelter. It was a beautiful evening around the campfire and you slept well in the shelter. The next day, the car park is a short hike from lilla Göljen if you do not continue your hike along the Sörmlandsleden trail that pass through the area.

Skating at Kvarnsjön

One of the first lakes to provide good ice for skating in the Stockholm area is Kvarnsjön in Lissma. Because the lake is narrow and very shallow, the ice settles here long before other lakes. This is where the skating premiere usually begins and there is usually good ice here already in November. The lake is nicely framed by the forest and the fresh ice sings when you skate over it.

Canoeing Färnebofjärden National Park

When the lower Dalälven river begins to approach the sea, it spreads out on the shore and creates a unique river landscape. Here is the biological northern border, where northern and southern species meet, which means that there is a rich animal and plant life here. In the middle of this is Färnebofjärden National Park, which offers both pleasant hiking trails and nice canoe waters.

Watch the video for more info about kayaking in Färnebofjärden National Park.

This tour started in the northern part of the national park. Canoeing in Färnebofjärden has the character of lake canoeing, but it is a river that you paddle on. So even though it looks like a lake, there is a difference if you paddle downstream or upstream. There are also a lot of streaming parts where some are wild rapids. This means that you have to plan your paddling both from a time perspective, that it will go faster in one direction than the other and that you do not end up in a current that you can not handle.

Canoeing in Färnebofjärden

Färnebofjärden is notorious for its mosquito populations. During June and July in particular, the mosquitoes can occasionally reach almost unbearable levels, which can be good to know if you plan to visit the area at this time. This trip was made in mid-October and despite that, the forest was full of mosquitoes when we started the trip. Once you got out on the water, the mosquitoes disappeared quickly and there was no problem with mosquitoes out on the islands.

The initial plan was to spend the night on Sandön, a popular destination for canoeists in the area. However, the plans changed during the day and we shortened the trip a bit and decided to have a little easier paddling.

Camp at Färnebofjärden

There are plenty of rest areas in the national park and there is much more to explore than we had time for as this was only a short overnight trip. Visiting Färnebofjärden during the autumn felt like a smart idea when you get the autumn colors and is not as limited by bird sanctuaries. And of course to get rid of the mosquitoes.

Worlds Most Exclusive Cabin?

On a small island far out in the Sankt Anna archipelago is a small unassuming cottage. A first glance at the king’s hunting lodge on Melskär does not give a remarkable impression. But when you learn a little more, you realize that this cottage is probably unique and unparalleled in Sweden and perhaps the whole world.

For more info about Melskär and the cabin watch the video

What makes this cottage so special? Above all, it is for the reason that it is completely free to live and use the cottage. There are plenty of cottages in Sweden that are open to the public and free to use but few on their own island in a beautiful archipelago. But the big difference compared to other cottages is that this must be booked, which means that you will have the cottage completely to yourself. This is what makes the cottage unique and it is likely that there is no equivalent anywhere else. To add a little extra spice to the already exclusive stamp, the cottage is owned by the Swedish king. Since the standard of the cottage is not exactly royal, it is instead open to the public to use.

Inside the cottage there is a bed and an extra mattress that you can lay on the floor. The cottage is not large so it is not recommended to sleep more than two people. There is also a fireplace and a small table. Outside there is a fireplace where you can barbecue and firewood is provided free of charge.

Melskär at night

The island Melskär on which the cottage is located is not large and you explore the island quickly. But there are hundreds of islands to explore in the Sankt Anna archipelago and it is a paradise for kayaking. The island is already far out in the sea belt but there are some islands further out if you really want to go out to sea and explore. There is also a seal protection area here and there are plenty of seals around Melskär. In the evening you can hear the seals singing and there is a rich wildlife on and around the island.

Kayaking in Sankt Anna’s archipelago

The king’s hunting lodge on Melskär is a treasure that few know about. To book the cottage, you must contact the county administrative board (länsstyrelsen) in Östergötland to see if it is available on the days you intend to use the cottage.

Canoeing Görälven

Görälven

Görälven is a nice canoeing water that mostly flows slowly with some elements of stronger rapids. The canoe route starts in Norway but most of the route towards Sälen goes through Sweden. The canoeing is well suited for a three-day trip with pleasant canoeing in a beautiful environment.

Watch the video for more info about kayaking along the Görälven river.

Canoeing Görälven

This tour started at Stötens camping because the border to Norway was closed during the pandemic. The stretch in Norway is supposed to be one of the finer parts of the tour, so it needs to be investigated and returned to on another trip. Due to this, the trip was shortened and the first day we only paddled for about 1 hour before we set up camp.

Finding good campsites was a little harder than we had first anticipated. One thing to take into account is the current. If you missed a good place, it was not obvious that you could turn around and paddle back as the current was often too strong.
The first night was spent at a sandbank along the river and we tried our luck at fishing, which did not yield anything and unfortunately would be a consistent feature during the trip.

The next day we continued paddling down Görälven. The paddling floats easily with the help of the current. Even in the calmer parts of the river you notice the current and get help from the flow of the river. A section of about 2 km occurs where there are more rapids and you have to take the entire distance without any paus. It’s not extreme, but you have to sharpen up a little extra and keep an eye on the rocks for the risk of capsizing. When this stretch is over, Görälven flows together with Fulan and forms Västerdalälven.

The whole day offers nice and varied kayaking. Several small islands are passed where you can paddle into small tributaries and explore. The fishing continued to be disappointing as it was completely dead. We fished with spinners, maybe we would have had better luck with the fly. The search for a nice place to set up the tent continued towards the evening and even though there were many places that would work, it was difficult to find something that felt perfect. In the end, we found a place we liked on a small island.

The third and last day was mostly about packing up and getting back to Sälen. Now the river flows more calmly and when you approach Sälen buildings also start to appear.
Canoeing in Görälven has a lot to offer with beautiful nature and varied canoeing.

Tyresta National Park and Årsjön

Årsjön

Tyresta is a national park located just outside Stockholm. Here you can walk among old-growth forests and small lakes where Årsjön is perhaps the nicest of them all. There are plenty of hiking trails in the national park, but it is also possible to leave the trails if you want to feel more surrounded by the forest and the sounds of nature.

Watch the video if you want to see more from Tyresta and Årsjön.

This tour started at the main entrance in Tyresta village. Here is a large car park and an exhibition presenting all national parks in Sweden. The hike to Årsjön is about 3 km long and easy to hike. When you start approaching Årsjön, the path becomes narrower and there are not quite as many other visitors in the area anymore.

Årsjön is a beautiful long narrow lake nicely framed by the forest. Here you can only camp in a designated place, which means that you will have to share it with other visitors, but there is no major concern since the tenting allowed area is large. As it is not allowed to camp in other places around the lake, the lake retains its wilderness character. On the opposite side of the tent site there is a lookout point where you get a nice view of the lake and is worth a visit.

View over Årsjön

The rest of the evening is easily spent sitting by the rocks and looking out over the lake or around the campfire. Årsjön is probably one of the finest lakes in Tyresta National Park and well worth a visit but there is much more to explore here as well.

Lunsentorpet

Lunsentorpet

There are many cabins around in Scandinavia that stands open for the public free of charge. One of those are Lunsentorpet that you find in nature reserve Norra lunsen.
Watch the video below for more information about the cabin.

The hike started at the parking lot in Heby from where you follow the trail Upplandsleden towards Lunsentorpet. Just after a kilometer you reach another small cabin that is called Fläktanstugan. This cabin is smaller and not intended for staying overnight. But it is a good place to rest and there is a fire stove that can be used if one needs to stay warm. Outside Fläktanstugan there is a watchtower where you can look for birds or other animals in the wetlands. From Fläktanstugan the trail continues towards Lunsentorpet. You walk through some nice old forrest but also some interesting parts of wetlands.

Once reaching the cabin one realise that it is a decent size cabin and can host quite a few people. Apart from the bunk beds that exist there is also the opportunity to sleep on the floor. Outside (and inside) there is a fireplace and firewood is provided. There is also a well for drinking water and a shelter one could use if one feels that the cabin is overcrowded.

Winter Hiking in Fulufjället National Park

Winter in Fulufjället

Snowshoes is easy and not to expensive and increase the hiking season to be an all year round activity. Fulufjället is just as good during winter as it is during summer and a perfect destination for a winter hike. Below are two trips with snowshoe hiking in Fulufjället.

There are many cabins that one can stay in within the national park. Some need to be booked in advance while others are drop in. There are also cabins that are intended for resting and not to stay overnight other than in the case of an emergency. Look at Fulufjällets national parks website for more info regarding the available cabins and when they are open.

Hiking in Stendörren

Stendörren is a beautiful costal nature reserve close to Nyköping in Sweden. There are suspension bridges that connects the islands with the mainland and it is a accessible way to explore the archipelago. The area is very popular during the summer but we are here in March when winter is turning into spring. For more information about the tour watch the video.

Map over the route hiked.

Stendörren map